IMARCS Foundation

Module 9

Cycling and System Maturation

Cycled versus mature, ways to start a system, fishless cycling, curing rock, die-off, microfauna, when to add the first animals, stocking slowly, readiness for sensitive animals, and recovering after a crash.

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Key terms for this module

Read these first. Every one of them comes up in the sections below.

Poly filter A chemical filter pad made to pull contaminants out of the water.
Cycled Ammonia and nitrite at zero, nitrate being made.
Mature Settled, varied and stable; about two years in Michael Maddox's experience.
Fishless cycling Growing nitrifiers with an ammonia source instead of animals.
Ammonium chloride A measured ammonia source used for fishless cycling.
Curing Keeping rock in water, away from animals, until it stops releasing waste.
Die-off Life on rock or sand dying and rotting.
Hitchhiker An animal that arrives on rock or with another animal.
Microfauna The tiny animals living in a system.
Copepods Tiny crustaceans, often called pods.
Bioload The waste load the animals put on a system.
Quarantine Keeping new animals separate before they join a system.

1. What maturity means

A cycled system and a mature system aren't the same thing. Cycling is the start line. Maturity takes much longer: in the experience of Michael Maddox, President of IMARCS, about two years.

Cycled and mature Cycled Mature Bacteria Enough for today Bacteria Varied, settled Numbers Ammonia, nitrite 0 Numbers Stable for weeks Life Mostly bare rock Life Tiny animals, algae Blooms Likely ahead Blooms Mostly behind Cycled is the start line, not the finish.

A system is cycled when its nitrifiers can turn the ammonia it gets now into nitrate, with ammonia and nitrite at zero (Module 8). That's enough for a few hardy animals. It isn't enough for everything.

A mature system has more than nitrifiers. It has a varied, settled community of microbes, tiny animals on the rock and sand, and algae that have found their balance. Its numbers hold steady week after week, and it handles a missed feeding or a hot day without big swings. A mature system has more ways to absorb a problem.

Most of this module is about the time between cycled and mature: what to add, when, and what can go wrong on the way.

If Then
Ammonia and nitrite at zero Cycled. Not yet mature.
Numbers steady for weeks A sign of maturity.

Check your understanding

A system cycled last week. A coworker wants to add a mandarin and a clam. What's the problem?

Cycled isn't mature. Those animals need a settled system with lots of pods and steady numbers.

Key point Cycled is the start line, not the finish.

2. Ways to start a system

How a system is started decides how much cycling it needs and what risks it carries.

Ways to start a system Dry rock and dry sand Needs a full cycle Established rock or sand May skip the cycle: test to confirm Seeded media Faster start: biosecurity applies ! New live rock May skip the cycle, but watch for die-off

A system built with dry rock and dry sand starts with almost no bacteria. It needs a full cycle before animals go in.

A system built with established rock or sand from a healthy system, or with new live rock, may already have enough helpful bacteria to skip the cycle. Test ammonia and nitrite before and after the first animals go in to confirm it. New live rock has a catch: if a lot of the life on it dies off, the rot can cause water quality problems (section 5).

In the experience of Michael Maddox, President of IMARCS, starting a reef system from dry rock is a mistake; he starts reef systems with high-quality live rock from the ocean, and uses dry rock only for systems such as breeding or holding fish. Module 36 sets out his approach.

Seeded media from a healthy system speeds things up. Anything from another system can carry pests and disease, so the biosecurity rules from Module 2 apply to rock, sand, media and water alike.

If Then
Dry rock and dry sand Needs a full cycle.
Established rock or sand May skip the cycle. Test to confirm.
New live rock May skip the cycle. Watch for die-off.

Check your understanding

A new system uses rock taken straight from an old, healthy system. Ammonia never rises. Is it safe to add a few fish?

Possibly. Test ammonia and nitrite before and after the first animals to confirm, and remember the rock can carry pests (Module 2).

Key point How you start decides how much cycling you need.

3. Fishless cycling

Fishless cycling grows the nitrifiers with an ammonia source instead of animals, so no animal suffers through the ammonia and nitrite spikes.

Fishless cycling Ammonia source Ammonium chloride to 2 ppm Test Ammonia and nitrite, often Keep the bacteria fed Top the ammonia back up Cycled Ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate made ! Never above 5 ppm The maker's upper limit

The bacteria need ammonia to grow. In a fishless cycle, it comes from an ammonia source added on purpose. One common product, ammonium chloride made for cycling, is dosed to bring ammonia to about 2 ppm, and its maker warns never to go above 5 ppm. Rotting food or a dead shrimp also make ammonia, but they add the leftovers of decay too, and the amount is hard to control. A measured ammonia source makes the cycle easier to read.

Test ammonia and nitrite often, and top the ammonia back up as the bacteria use it, so they keep growing. Turn off UV sterilizers and ozone during the first cycle. The system is cycled when ammonia and nitrite read zero and nitrate is being made (Module 8).

Bacteria that go without ammonia shrink (Module 8). If animals don't go in soon after the cycle finishes, keep feeding the bacteria until they do.

If Then
Ammonia used up in a fishless cycle Top it back up to about 2 ppm.
Ammonia above 5 ppm Above the maker's limit. Let it come down.
Cycle done, no animals yet Keep feeding the bacteria.

Check your understanding

During a fishless cycle, ammonia hit 6 ppm after a coworker added extra "to speed it up." What's wrong?

It's above the maker's 5 ppm limit. Let it come down, with water changes if needed, then dose to about 2 ppm.

Key point Measured ammonia, frequent tests, zero, zero, nitrate made.

4. Curing rock

Curing means keeping rock in water, away from animals, until it stops releasing waste. Both live rock and dry rock can need it.

Curing rock Warm, moving water About 26 C, pumps running Skimmer on, little light Waste out, less nuisance algae Clean it out Water changes, siphon dead matter Ready Ammonia 0, no rotten-egg smell Weeks, sometimes months.

Live rock loses some of its life in shipping. When it goes back in water, that dead life rots and can spike ammonia and phosphate and release organics. Dry rock can carry dead marine life too, dried in place, and it can leach nutrients and organics as it decays. Some dry rock products are sold as needing only a rinse; check what the maker says.

Cure rock in warm, moving water (about 26 C, 78 to 80 F) with a skimmer running, in a separate container or in the new system before any animals or sand go in. Keep the light short to limit nuisance algae. Change water often, siphon out dead material and remove anything clearly dead. Watch for hitchhikers, like crabs or mantis shrimp, and remove them before the rock is placed.

Test ammonia. Rock is cured when ammonia stays at zero and there's no rotten-egg smell. That can take a couple of weeks, or months for rock carrying a lot of dead material.

Not all live rock is cured. In the approach of Michael Maddox, President of IMARCS (Module 36), high-quality live rock is shipped in water, arrives within about 24 hours of being shipped, and goes into the system quickly without curing. Test and watch for die-off all the same (section 5).

If Then
Rock smells like rotten eggs Still curing. Keep going.
Ammonia stays at zero Cured.
A crab or mantis shrimp on the rock Remove it before the rock is placed.

Check your understanding

Rock has cured for ten days. Ammonia still reads 0.5 and it smells of rotten eggs. Ready?

No. Keep curing: water changes, siphon dead material, test until ammonia stays at zero and the smell is gone.

Key point Warm, moving water, skimmer on, test until ammonia stays zero.

5. Die-off

Die-off is life on rock or sand dying and rotting. In a system with animals, it's a water quality problem.

Die-off Life on the rock dies Shipping, drying, moving It rots Decomposers break it down ! Rising waste Ammonia, phosphate, organics ! Foam, smell, cloudy water Stress for any animals present

Die-off happens when rock or sand life is shipped, dried, moved or cut off from flow, or when a lot of animals die at once. Decomposers break the dead material down, releasing ammonia, phosphate and organics (Module 8). Signs include a rotten-egg smell, extra foam from the skimmer, cloudy water and rising ammonia.

That's why new live rock that hasn't been cured, or established rock that sat out of water too long, can push ammonia up even in a system that cycled. Remove what's dead, test ammonia and nitrite, do matched water changes, and report it. Hold off on new animals until the numbers settle.

If Then
Rotten-egg smell and extra foam Die-off. Test ammonia, remove what's dead.
Ammonia after adding uncured live rock Die-off. Water changes, report it.

Check your understanding

Uncured live rock went into a cycled system yesterday. Today ammonia reads 0.25 and the skimmer is foaming hard. What's happening?

Die-off on the new rock. Remove anything clearly dead, do matched water changes, test daily and report it.

Key point Dead life rots into ammonia, phosphate and organics.

6. Tiny animals: microfauna

A mature system is full of tiny animals living in the rock and sand. They're part of what makes it mature.

Tiny animals in a system Copepods and other tiny animals Live on rock, sand and glass They eat They feed Detritus Leftover food, film algae Small hunters Mandarins, wrasses, small gobies More kinds of life, less room for pests.

Microfauna are the tiny animals in a system, like copepods, small crustaceans often called pods. Copepods eat small amounts of detritus, leftover food and film algae. In turn, they're food for fish that hunt tiny live prey across the rock and sand, such as mandarins, wrasses and small gobies.

Live rock brings these animals in. A system built from dry rock starts without them. They can be added from a culture, ideally soon after the cycle, before fish start hunting them: add them with the lights off and pumps paused, near cover like rock or a refugium, so they can settle. More kinds of life make it harder for pests and nuisance organisms to take hold.

Fish that hunt pods, like mandarins, find little to eat in a new system that has few of them. Those fish belong in mature systems with plenty of pods.

If Then
System built from dry rock No pods yet. They can be added.
A pod-hunting fish like a mandarin Mature systems with plenty of pods.

Check your understanding

A new system built from dry rock has no visible pods. A mandarin is offered. What do you say?

Not yet. Mandarins hunt pods, and a new dry-rock system has few of them.

Key point Pods eat detritus and feed fish.

7. Ready for the first animals

Animals go in when the tests say so, not when the calendar or the excitement says so.

Ready for the first animals Cycled Ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate made Steady water Salinity and temperature stable Steady after feeding No ammonia or nitrite after food All three, then the first animals.

Before the first animals go in, three things should be true. The system is cycled: ammonia and nitrite at zero and nitrate being made. Salinity and temperature are steady. And after a feeding or an ammonia dose, ammonia and nitrite stay at zero, so the bacteria can handle a load.

If the system was started with established rock or new live rock, confirm the same things by testing, even if it never showed a cycle. A system that skipped the cycle still has to prove it can handle animals.

If Then
Cycled, steady water, no ammonia after feeding Ready for the first hardy animals.
System skipped the cycle Still test to prove it can handle animals.

Check your understanding

Ammonia and nitrite read zero, but a small food test pushes ammonia to 0.25 the next day. Ready?

Not yet. The bacteria can't handle a load yet. Keep feeding them and test again.

Key point Tests decide, not the calendar.

8. Stocking slowly

The biggest mistake with a new system is adding too much, too fast. The bacteria grow to match the load, slowly.

Stocking order First Hardy animals, low load Then One addition at a time, at least a week apart Settle Let the load steady between Last The most sensitive animals

Add animals one at a time, with time between them. Space fish at least a week apart so the bacteria can catch up with each new load. Test ammonia and nitrite after each addition.

Start with hardy animals that add little load. Hardy corals add far less load than fish, because fish give off ammonia through their gills. Clean-up animals like snails go in to match the food that's there for them; added early with nothing to eat, they starve and add to the load when they die. Add fish from least to most aggressive. After the last addition, let the system settle; every change in load is another source of instability.

Every new animal is also a biosecurity risk. New arrivals go through quarantine before they join a system (covered in the quarantine module).

If Then
Five fish bought on one day Too much load at once.
Snails added with nothing to eat They starve and add load when they die.
Choosing the order of fish Least aggressive first, most aggressive last.

Check your understanding

A new 300 L system just cycled. A coworker wants to add six fish this afternoon. What's the better plan?

One addition at a time, at least a week apart, hardy and peaceful first, testing ammonia and nitrite after each.

Key point One at a time, hardy first, a week or more apart.

9. Ready for sensitive animals

Sensitive animals, like many stony corals and giant clams, go in last. They need a system that has proven it's stable.

Ready for sensitive calcifiers Weeks of stable logs No swings, no drift Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium Steady, inside normal Nutrients detectable Not zero, not too high Nuisance blooms faded The ugly stage is behind The log decides, not the calendar.

Calcifiers that are sensitive to swings need alkalinity, calcium and magnesium to stay steady and inside their normal ranges (Module 6). They need nutrients that are detectable, not zero and not too high. And they need a system that isn't still going through its ugly stage (Module 8).

There's no fixed number of weeks or months. The log decides: weeks of stable readings, no drift and no swings, with the dosing and testing routine settled. A system that still needs constant fixes isn't ready for animals that can't handle change.

If Then
Logs still swinging Not ready for sensitive animals.
Nutrients at zero Not ready. Zero is harmful.

Check your understanding

A four-month-old system's alkalinity log swings 1 dKH most weeks. Is it ready for a giant clam?

No. Sensitive calcifiers need weeks of steady numbers. Fix the swings first.

Key point The log decides, not the calendar.

10. Recovering after a crash

Even mature systems can be knocked back: a power cut, a heater failure, a dead animal, an overdose. Recovery is a smaller version of maturing all over again.

Recovering after a crash ! Stop the cause Power, heat, dead animal, overdose Remove anything dead Matched water changes Large and repeated if needed Fresh carbon, a poly filter Bottled bacteria may help Unless a bacterial bloom is already on Feed lightly, test daily ! No new animals Until the numbers hold steady

First, stop the cause, if it's still happening: restore power and flow, fix the heater, stop the dosing. Remove anything dead. Do matched water changes to bring ammonia and nitrite down while the bacteria recover (Module 8). If the numbers are high or keep coming back, make them large and repeat them as often as needed (Module 5 covers making and matching new salt water). Put in fresh activated carbon (Module 6) and add a poly filter, a chemical filter pad made to pull contaminants out of the water. Adding a bottled beneficial bacteria product may help, as long as there isn't already a bacterial bloom (Module 8). Feed lightly, because every feeding adds load, and test ammonia and nitrite daily. Report it, with what you saw and what you did.

The bacteria that were lost grow back slowly. Until the numbers hold steady again, don't add animals or make other big changes. A crash can also set off nuisance blooms as the community rebuilds; treat them as you would in a new system, with the basics and patience.

If Then
Crash cause still happening Stop it first.
Numbers still moving No new animals yet.

Check your understanding

A heater stuck on overnight and a fish died. The heater is now off and the fish removed. Ammonia reads 0.5. What next?

Matched water changes, repeated as needed, fresh carbon and a poly filter, light feeding, daily tests, and report it. No new animals until the numbers hold steady.

Key point Stop the cause, remove the dead, large and repeated water changes if needed, fresh carbon and a poly filter, bottled bacteria if there's no bacterial bloom, feed lightly, test daily.

11. Patience is part of the method

Almost every problem in a new system comes from doing too much, too fast. Waiting is a skill, and it's part of the job.

Rushing What it causes
Adding animals before the system is cycled Ammonia and nitrite spikes. Animals suffer or die.
Adding many animals at once The bacteria fall behind. Ammonia rises.
Treating every nuisance bloom Bigger swings. The ugly stage lasts longer.
Chasing numbers every day A new number every day for the animals (Module 6).
Sensitive animals in a new system They can't handle the swings a new system still has.
Skipping the tests because the water looks clear Clear water doesn't show ammonia or nitrite.

The cure for each is the same: test, wait, add slowly, and let the log show when the system is ready.

If Then
Urge to fix everything at once Test, wait, and change one thing at a time.
Water looks clear It doesn't show ammonia. Test.

Check your understanding

A new system has diatoms, a few nuisance spots and steady numbers. A coworker wants to add three treatments and two fish today. What do you say?

Neither. Diatoms are normal; treat with basics and patience. Add fish one at a time, once the system is ready.

Key point Test, wait, add slowly.

12. What you see, and what it means

Ammonia and nitrite zero for the first time Cycled. Not mature yet.
Ammonia rises after a small food test Bacteria not ready for a load.
Ammonia above 5 ppm in a fishless cycle Above the maker's limit. Let it come down.
Rotten-egg smell from rock Still curing, or die-off.
Ammonia after adding uncured live rock Die-off. Remove dead material, water changes, report.
No pods in a new dry-rock system Normal. Add them from a culture if needed.
Ammonia after adding several fish at once Load outran the bacteria. Slow down.
Snails dying in a new system Possibly nothing to eat yet.
Alkalinity still swinging Not ready for sensitive calcifiers.
Ammonia after a crash Bacteria lost. Stop the cause, water changes, fresh carbon, poly filter, test daily.

Module 9 test

30 questions. Pass with 27 or more. Opens after you pass every section check in this module. Sign in to start.

Sources

  1. Bulk Reef Supply: Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride for fishless cycles (2 ppm, never above 5 ppm)
  2. Bulk Reef Supply: how to cure live rock
  3. Bulk Reef Supply / Marine Depot: how to cure rock for your reef (dry rock leaching, die-off)
  4. Bulk Reef Supply: Reef Seacrits live copepods (what pods eat, what eats them, how to add)
  5. Algae Research Supply: why add copepods to your reef
  6. Reefs.com: reef mentoring part 5, adding livestock
  7. Reef Builders: how to manage the ugly stage of a new reef tank
  8. Practical Fishkeeping: think you know filter bacteria? (starvation and recovery)