Key terms for this module
Read these first. Every one of them comes up in the sections below.
| Floor loading | How much weight a floor can safely carry. |
| Level | Flat, with no slope front to back or side to side. |
| Leveling feet | Adjustable feet used to make a stand level. |
| Ventilation | Air moving in and out of a room. |
| Humidity | How much water vapor is in the air. |
| Indoor CO2 | Carbon dioxide in a room's air, mostly from people breathing. |
| Salt spray | Tiny drops of salt water thrown into the air by bursting bubbles. |
| Salt creep | Dried salt that builds up and spreads where water splashes or wicks. |
| Corrosion | Damage to metal from salt and water, such as rust. |
| Drip loop | A dip in a cable below its outlet, so water drips off (Module 2). |
| Earthquake mat | A mat under a stand that reduces shaking. |
| Leak sensor | A device that detects water on the floor (Module 20). |
1. Weight and the floor
A filled aquarium is far heavier than it looks, and all of that weight sits on a small area of floor.
Water weighs about 1 kg per liter, and salt water a little more. On top of the water come the glass, rock, sand, stand, sump and equipment. So a 300 L system weighs well over 300 kg, and that weight sits on the stand's feet: a few small points of the floor.
Before a large system goes in, the floor has to be checked. Ask the building's owner or manager, or a qualified person such as a structural engineer, whether the floor can carry it where it's planned to go. Don't guess.
Work out the total weight from the real amount of water in the system, not the size printed on the tank (Module 35 covers the calculations), plus everything else in and under the tank. Planning for the full weight, not just the water, avoids a nasty surprise.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| A large system planned for an upper floor | Ask whether the floor can carry it. |
| Weight worked out from the water only | Too low. Add glass, rock, stand and equipment. |
Check your understanding
A 400 L system is planned for an upstairs room. Someone says the floor is fine because 400 L is 400 kg. What's wrong?
It's more: salt water weighs a little more, and the glass, rock, sand, stand, sump and equipment add a lot. And nobody checked the floor. Ask the building owner or a qualified person.
Key point About 1 kg per liter, plus everything else. Check the floor.
2. Stand, level and the maker's instructions
The tank needs the support its maker specifies, set level, before any water goes in.
Every aquarium and stand comes with the maker's installation instructions. They say what support the tank needs, how flat and level it must be, and how to set it up. Read them and follow them. A tank that isn't supported the way its maker says puts stress on its seams (Module 11).
Check the stand with a level in both directions, front to back and side to side. Adjust it while it's empty, with its leveling feet or as the maker describes. Fill the tank, then check again.
Never move or adjust a tank with water in it. If it needs to move, drain it first. Report a stand that rocks, cracks, bows or shows water damage.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| Stand not level | Adjust it while empty. |
| Tank needs moving | Drain it first. |
| A stand that rocks or bows | Report it. |
Check your understanding
A filled tank is found to be slightly off level. A coworker wants to lift one corner and push in a shim. What do you say?
No. Never adjust a full tank. Report it; it has to be drained and leveled empty, as the maker says.
Key point Follow the maker's instructions. Level, then fill.
3. Power, water, drains and air
A system needs four things from the site: power, water, a drain and ventilation. Plan them before the tank goes in.
Power: enough outlets and circuits for pumps, heaters, lights and controllers, placed where water can't reach them. Module 2 covers electrical safety.
Water: a supply of purified water nearby for top-off and water changes (Module 4). Drainage: somewhere close to put used water, and a way to deal with spills. Carrying water a long way makes every water change slower and riskier.
Ventilation: air moving in and out of the room. It carries away moisture and heat from the system and brings in fresh air (sections 4 and 5).
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| No drain nearby | Water changes get slow and risky. |
| Outlets where water can reach them | A shock risk (Module 2). |
Check your understanding
A system is planned for a room with no drain and no window. What problems do you expect?
Slow, risky water changes and spills with nowhere to go, plus humidity, heat and possibly indoor CO2 building up.
Key point Power, water, drainage and ventilation, planned first.
4. The room: temperature, sunlight and humidity
The room affects the water. A system in the wrong room fights it every day.
The room's temperature decides how much work the heaters and chillers do (Module 14). A room that gets very hot or very cold makes the water harder to hold steady.
Direct sunlight on a tank heats the water and feeds nuisance algae. Place tanks out of direct sun.
Water evaporates from the system into the room, so the room gets humid. Without ventilation, that moisture can damage walls, floors and furniture and lead to mold. Check the room for damp, and report it.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| Sun on the tank | Heat and algae. Move it or shade it. |
| Damp walls or mold | Too humid. Report it. |
Check your understanding
A tank by a sunny window has algae and temperature swings every afternoon. What's the likely cause?
Direct sunlight heating the water and feeding the algae. Move it or shade it.
Key point The room is part of the system.
5. Indoor carbon dioxide
The air in the room affects the pH of the water.
People breathe out carbon dioxide (CO2). In a closed room, indoor CO2 builds up. CO2 in the air dissolves into the water and forms carbonic acid, which lowers pH (Module 6). High CO2 in the air around a tank is a common cause of low pH, when alkalinity is already where it should be.
A simple test: let fresh air into the room for about 24 hours. If pH rises, indoor CO2 is part of the cause. Fixes include more fresh air, an air exchanger, or a CO2 scrubber on the skimmer's air intake (Module 16).
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| pH low, alkalinity normal | Suspect indoor CO2. |
| pH rises after a day of fresh air | Indoor CO2 is part of the cause. |
Check your understanding
pH is low, but alkalinity is normal. The room is small and often has several people in it with the door shut. What do you check?
Indoor CO2. Let fresh air in for about 24 hours and see whether pH rises.
Key point Fresh air test first, then fix the air.
6. Salt creep, salt spray and corrosion
Salt water gets out of the system in small ways, all the time. Over months, it damages the room and the equipment.
Bubbles bursting at the surface throw tiny drops of salt water into the air: salt spray. Where water splashes or wicks and then dries, salt crystals build up and spread: salt creep.
Salt corrodes metal. It rusts stands, fittings and fixings, and it damages plugs, contacts and electronics. Salt and water near electrics are also a shock risk (Module 2). Moisture damages walls, floors and furniture.
Wipe salt creep away early, before it builds up. Keep plugs, power strips and controllers away from spray and splash. Report rust, corrosion or water damage.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| Crust of salt on equipment | Salt creep. Wipe it off. |
| Rust on the stand or fittings | Report it. |
Check your understanding
A power strip behind the tank has a white crust on it. What's it, and what do you do?
Salt creep. It's a shock and corrosion risk. Report it; the power strip needs moving away from spray and the salt cleaned off safely, with power off (Module 2).
Key point Wipe salt early. Keep electrics away from it.
7. Noise and vibration
Pumps, falling water and fans make noise. In a home, an office or a public space, noise matters.
Pumps pass vibration into whatever they sit on or touch, and a hard surface makes it louder. Soft mounts and keeping pumps off hard surfaces help. Water falling into the sump makes noise too; the drain is set up to limit it (Module 12).
Place loud equipment such as chillers and fans away from where people sit or work.
A new rattle or hum is information. Something may be loose, worn or touching something it shouldn't. Find it, and report it.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| A new rattle or hum | Find it. Something may be loose. |
| A pump on a hard surface | Louder. Use a soft mount. |
Check your understanding
A return pump that was quiet starts to hum and rattle. What do you do?
Treat it as information: find the cause. It may be loose, touching something, or worn. Report it.
Key point Noise is information.
8. Room to work
Every job on a system needs a person to reach it safely.
Leave room to reach every piece of equipment, clean the glass inside and out, and lift things out without straining. Module 2 covers safe lifting.
Check that equipment can be carried in and out of the room, and that power can be switched off without reaching over water.
Jobs that are hard to reach get skipped, and skipped jobs show up later as problems.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| Equipment that can't be reached | Jobs get skipped. |
| Power switched off by reaching over water | Unsafe. Move the switch. |
Check your understanding
To switch off a pump, staff have to reach over the open sump. What's the problem?
It's unsafe. Power should be switched off without reaching over water. Report it so the switch can be moved.
Key point Room to reach, clean, lift and remove.
9. Spills, leaks and waterproofing
Sooner or later, water ends up on the floor. Plan where it will go.
Ask where the water would go if the sump overflowed, a hose came off, or the tank failed completely. Plan the floor, and anything below it, for that.
Use a floor that water can't damage, or protect it. Put trays or a raised edge under the sump and anything else that can drip or overflow. Leak sensors can raise an alarm or switch a pump off (Module 20).
Keep towels and a way to remove water close by. Report any leak, however small; small leaks get bigger.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| A small drip under the sump | Report it. It gets bigger. |
| No tray under the sump | An overflow goes straight to the floor. |
Check your understanding
There's a small, slow drip under the sump. It's only a few drops a day. What do you do?
Report it. Small leaks get bigger. Find the source and put a tray under it.
Key point Plan where the water goes.
10. Earthquakes and other local hazards
Every site has its own risks. In earthquake areas, a tank full of water is a hazard.
The higher a tank sits, the less stable it is. A low, solid stand helps. An earthquake mat or gel mat under the stand can reduce shaking. Inside the tank, keep heavy rock low and stable, so it can't fall against the glass.
Move tall or loose things, such as shelves and vases, away from the tank. Secure equipment and lids so they can't fall in or come off.
After an earthquake or power cut, the first need is oxygen for the animals; keep a way to aerate the water without mains power. Module 33 covers emergencies. Find out which other hazards apply to the site, such as flooding, storms or long power cuts, and plan for them.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| Rock stacked high and loose | Can fall against the glass. Keep it low and stable. |
| Power out after a quake | Oxygen first. |
Check your understanding
Rock in a display is stacked high and loose to look dramatic. The site is in an earthquake area. What's the risk?
In a quake it can fall against the glass. Keep heavy rock low and stable.
Key point Low, stable, secured. Oxygen first after.
11. Running cables, hoses and pipes
Cables, hoses and pipes run all around a system. Where they go decides how safe it is.
Cables need drip loops and should stay off the floor, where water collects (Module 2). Keep power strips up high and away from water lines where you can.
Hoses must be secured so they can't pop off or move out of place. A loose hose can empty a container onto the floor. Pipes need support and should be easy to follow, so anyone can see what goes where (Module 12).
Keep walkways clear. Nothing should run where people step.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| Cable lying on a wet floor | Lift it, drip loop, report (Module 2). |
| A loose hose | Secure it before it pops off. |
Check your understanding
A hose filling a container is held in place only by being hooked over the edge. What can happen?
It can pop off or move and empty water onto the floor. Secure it.
Key point Drip loops, secured hoses, clear walkways.
12. Storing salt, chemicals, food and tools
Everything a system uses has to be stored somewhere. Store it well, and it stays safe and works.
Salt takes in moisture from the air and cakes, so keep it dry and sealed. Chemicals and additives: keep them labeled, apart from each other, and stored as the maker says. Food: store it as the maker says; keep frozen food frozen.
Tools: keep them clean and in one place, so they can be found in an emergency.
Don't store anything above a tank. Anything that falls in, from a lid of chemicals to a tool, can harm the system.
| If | Then |
|---|---|
| Salt bag left open | It takes in moisture and cakes. |
| Chemicals on a shelf above the tank | Move them. |
Check your understanding
Bottles of additives are kept on a shelf right above the display. What's wrong?
Anything above a tank can fall in. Store chemicals labeled, apart and away from the tank.
Key point Dry, sealed, labeled, apart. Nothing above the tank.
13. What you see, and what it means
| Weight worked out from water only | Too low. Add everything else. |
| A stand that rocks or bows | Report it. Don't fill or keep using it. |
| A filled tank off level | Drain before adjusting. |
| Sun on the tank every afternoon | Heat and algae. |
| Damp walls or mold | Too humid. Ventilation. |
| pH low, alkalinity normal | Suspect indoor CO2. |
| White crust on equipment | Salt creep. Wipe it off. |
| Rust on the stand | Corrosion. Report it. |
| A new rattle or hum | Something loose or worn. |
| A drip under the sump | Report it. It gets bigger. |
| Rock stacked high and loose | Can fall in a quake. |
| Cable on a wet floor | Lift it. Drip loop. |
| Chemicals above the tank | Move them. |
Module 10 test
30 questions. Pass with 27 or more. Opens after you pass every section check in this module. Sign in to start.
Sources
- Bulk Reef Supply: how to raise pH in a saltwater tank with a CO2 scrubber (indoor CO2, 24-hour fresh air test, air exchanger, scrubber)
- Jackery Japan: earthquake countermeasures for aquariums (higher stands less stable, earthquake and gel mats, heavy items low, tall items away, oxygen first after a power cut)
